Want to go hiking in the Black Forest? Try Feldberg for views for miles!
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Planning a Trip to the Black Forest
The number one question I get (and asked, when I first moved to southwest Germany): where exactly is the Black Forest? What is the Black Forest?
Like many areas in foreign countries not defined by strict borders on a map (the Dolomites! the Cotswalds! Prosecco Road!), it can be hard to figure out how to have a quintessential experience without some help.
Side note: yes, all three of my examples do have defined borders, I know. But as an outsider it can be tough to figure them out at first – especially beyond one very touristic city/corner – without talking to someone with experience. Enter your friendly neighborhood travel advisor, me!
If we use the example of the Dolomites, a quick internet search will tell you about Cortina d’Ampezzo. Thanks to the Olympics, it’s more well known than ever, but it’s been a popular ski spot for decades. Cortina is GREAT and I love it! And also: there are other smaller towns that will give you a perfect taste of Italian mountain life beyond the tourist-heavy spots. (I recommend Monte Lussari, Falcade, or San Martino di Castrozza if you’re looking!)
So generally: the Black Forest is a region in southwest Germany. It’s not a particular town or mountain. It covers more than 2000 miles, and it has so much to offer!
Black Forest subregions
If it’s helpful: the Black Forest isn’t just one big forest. It’s divided into subregions based on climate and what you can find!
The northern Black Forest is known for its namesake dense wooded areas, like Nationalpark Schwarzwald (Black Forest National Park). Baden-Baden and Bad Wildbad are here.
Central section of the Black Forest has spots like the Kinzig Valley, Triberg waterfalls, and clockmaking.
The southern Black Forest features mountains and lakes as well as the city of Freiburg, sometimes called the “jewel of the Black Forest.” My first two Black Forest guides focus on the southern part of the region!
This is the start of a series to help with planning a trip to the Black Forest. Today’s guide focuses on Feldberg! It may not be the first thing you think of when you picture the Black Forest, but it’s darling and a great home base for a few days in the area.
Hiking in the Black Forest
Feldberg is the highest point in the Black Forest area! This isn’t a particularly mountainous region, so not a massive claim. After living next to the Dolomites for 5 years part of me wants to call this a hill not a mountain. But it’s all relative, so we’ll go with mountain. Either way, it gives beautiful views of the surrounding areas!
To be clear: the peak and much of our hiking here wasn’t in a forest! A bit confusing for this to be solidly in the Black Forest area. It’s not all straight up forest, but our hike down the mountain did take us through forests more typical of what you’re probably picturing.
Feldberg also has skiing and sledding in winter! It’s not a major ski destination per se, but if you’re nearby in winter it’s a great way to experience the area! You can also do some great snowshoeing and winter hiking in the Black Forest around Feldberg.
What to Expect in Feldberg
The best way to do Feldberg is to take the cable car up to the peak! Whatever your hiking skill, one of my favorite ways to hike in Europe is to take a cable car up, enjoy the views at the top, and then hike my way down.
The Feldberg cable car is easy to get to by car, with plenty of parking at the base. You can get a day pass for ski season, or a one time ticket (return or one way). Check all the details on the official website.
There’s an observation deck at the top, and I can’t do a guide on Feldberg without mentioning it. It was closed for renovations when I was there, but I wouldn’t have bought a ticket anyway. Honestly, I don’t know how going up another 50 feet would make the view dramatically better than the miles we could already see from its base.
While we were up there, we encountered at least three groups of farmers grazing their livestock right along the mountaintop! Including a group of cows that literally surrounded us as they moved across the grassy trail.
This is your gentle reminder that these are not pets, and you don’t know their temperaments. Don’t try to touch them or make big sudden movements or noises. Stand there, let them do their thing, take photos, and enjoy the moment!
We walked along the peak for a bit, enjoying the views and the weather. You can see for miles, and there are other small monuments up here too.
Once you’ve seen what you want to up top, you’ve got your pick of trails down! We picked a route that loosely put us near where we parked and took us close to a hut for lunch. The trails are well marked, and we typically use the Wikiloc app to make a plan.
It did end up with us walking through a local neighborhood for the last quarter mile or so, which was fine with us! But not solid “out in nature” the whole time if that’s important to you.
Midway down the mountain, we stopped for lunch at a hütte! There are a few of these, but we chose St. Wilhelmer Hutte.
The food was great! The menu had variety and was perfect for an outdoor meal: a mix of hot dishes, a few salads/lighter dishes, and flammekuchen/tarte flambé! This crispy flatbread is typically topped with onions, lardons, sometimes potatoes, and a creamy white sauce. And of course, a beer in typical German hiking fashion.
For those of us who want to follow custom but can’t always figure it out: if you see empty seats, you don’t wait to be seated by staff. Shared tables encouraged the camaraderie of hiking on a beautiful sunny day. The language barrier didn’t hold us back from toasting a beautiful day and our cute baby!
There were a few other huts with restaurants and I didn’t write down their names. But I highly recommend this one for its range of delicious food! It was also very close along our route.
Where to Stay in Feldberg
If you’re planing to go hiking in the Black Forest near Feldberg, I recommend staying in nearby Titisee. I’ll be sharing a guide to the town soon, but it’s a quaint spot along a small lake and perfect for relaxing in between hikes or day trips!
If you’re in a hurry to find something, I always use Booking.com to find the best hotels. It’s a good way to assess value for cost, so there’s a great option at every budget!
What’s Near Feldberg
If you’re in the area, here are a few spots worth considering as add ons!
Titisee
Titisee has to be my first rec, as a home base if nothing else. But it’s a charming town with good food, relaxing feel, water activities and a spa. It’s the perfect balance after a day of hiking!
Ravenna Gorge
The Ravenna Gorge is another great hiking area. It’s a narrow valley with steep sides and waterfalls throughout. There are great trails through here and the views are unique. It’s also popular in December for its Christmas market! I’m planning to go this year!
Freiburg im Breisgau
Sometimes called “the jewel of the Black Forest,” Freiburg is a charming town with a vibrant university culture. It would also make a good base for exploring the area, but it’s a bit further from some Feldberg so I preferred Titisee as our hotel spot.
Todtnau
Todtnau is high on my list! The area has some good hiking with waterfalls, and if you’re up for a a bit more action there’s a a suspension bridge over the valley and roller coaster! The coaster is nearly 3 km (1.8 mile) down the mountain, giving a unique way to experience the downhill. You can either hike up or take the chairlift. I highly recommend it!
Hiking in the Black Forest can look a million ways, but Feldberg has some great views! This is the first in a series to help you plan a trip to the Black Forest. Next up: Titisee, where you can relax by the lake after your hike!
Until then, check out some of my other Germany guides like Rothenburg ob der Tauber, Neuschwanstein Castle, or Munich!
